Dimpling your barrel to help secure your gas block is key to ensuring the gas system of your AR will continue to function correctly. A loose gas block can cause havoc to the cycling of your AR. I dimple at least once directly under the gas port. I can dimple twice, but realize that different manufactures have different spacing for the second screw. If you want or need to change your existing gas block you have to use a gas block with the same set screw spacing. Not a huge issue for some, but if the new gas block you want has a different spacing you would need to get another barrel to accommodate the different spacing.
All Documents posted on this site are for informational use only. If you make ANY modifications to your Weapons based on this site, you do at your own risk! If done incorrectly, you can render you weapon unsafe and / or unusable.
This is NOT to check the diameter of your barrel or anything else! Just to check if there is a bulge in your barrel.
Glocks method of checking the barrel is to remove the slide and push it the barrel hole and make sure it does not have a bulge. I wanted something I could use on barrels that are not installed without having to remove a slide.
This example is for 9mm Barrels. I measured several 9mm barrels and slides for Glocks and came up with 0.580 inch for the inner diameter. Because printers vary check before you use.
Just slide it over your barrel and check for a bulge. PLA is softer than the barrel so there should be no marring.
All Documents posted on this site are for informational use only. If you make ANY modifications to your Weapons based on this site, you do at your own risk! If done incorrectly, you can render you weapon unsafe and / or unusable.
My Present Arms Gunners Mount Kit is awesome. The one thing I wanted different was the Receiver Alignment Block. It does not seem to fit right on non-mil spec buffer tubes I work on. How can they know all the sizes?
You can see the gap here, it will not seat all the way.
And that is because the buffer tube rail is too wide.
So I do what I do and made one. Seats all the way down
And tightly fits the buffer tube rail
The metal rod it ¼ inch and I cut it down to just below the top.
Then topped it off with a couple of the included caps.
All Documents posted on this site are for informational use only. If you make ANY modifications to your Weapons based on this site, you do at your own risk! If done incorrectly, you can render you weapon unsafe and / or unusable.
A sleeve to help hold your castle nut wrench firmly in place while cranking it down on your Present Arms Gunners Mount.
I can not claim this idea as my own, I was watching this video from School of the American Rifle and though “What a great idea”. I did not have any 1 ¼ inch PVC laying around, but I do have a 3D printer and PLA. This is what I came up with for the below wrenches.
All Documents posted on this site are for informational use only. If you make ANY modifications to your Weapons based on this site, you do at your own risk! If done incorrectly, you can render you weapon unsafe and / or unusable.
AR Compensator (Flash hider) No Torque, timing value with the procedure in the Army TM. Hand tight and then tighten a minimum of 90 degrees but no more than 450 degrees to timing. Don’t over tighten, don’t loosen.
AR Barrel Nut 30 Ft. lbs. Minimum, not to exceed 80 Ft. Lbs. to align the next slot in the barrel nut. The 80 Ft. Lbs is not stated in the TM, but I don’t know how you would line up the gas tube, without going over 30 Ft. Lbs. Unless you use shims. I don’t think most folks will have any laying around. This torque spec is common across the community and internet.
AR Carrier Key Screws 50-58 INCH pounds torque
AR Lower Receiver Extension (Buffer Tube/Castle Nut) 40 Ft. lbs for both Rifle and Carbine.
M-LOK Accessories:
For attaching metal accessories to metal hand guards: 35 in/lbs
For attaching polymer or metal accessories to polymer hand guards: 15 in/lbs
For attaching polymer accessories to metal hand guards: 15 in/lbs
The installation torque values are not minimums, they are recommended limits. The nylon patch compound may slightly affect the torque reading if using an in/lb torque wrench.
Using a small hex wrench should prevent over-tightening. Remember that the recoil lugs are doing most of the work, and excessive torque on the nuts is not required
My Comments:
The rest of the items in the research below I could not find in the Army TM, manufacture website or in common reference. Until I can find it, I am going with ‘tight’ and the appropriate thread lockers. ‘Tight’ might be the values listed.
I am not saying that the info below is wrong or bad. I could not readily verify it. The above is what I will use, at the end of the day I am responsible for my decisions and you are responsible for yours.
########### RESEARCH ITEMS BELOW ###########
AR Compensator (Flash hider), 15-20 Ft. Lbs. Torque *1
AR Compensator (Flash hider) *3 (No Torque, timing value)
AR Handguard Screws, 20-30 inch pounds torque *1
AR Gas Block Set Screws, 25-30 inch pounds torque *1
AR Barrel Nut, 30 Ft. lbs. Minimum, not to exceed 80 Ft. Lbs. to align the next slot in the barrel nut. *1 *5
AR Barrel Nut, 30 Ft. lbs. *3 (I cant find the 80 Ft. Lbs. In the TM)
AR Carrier Key Screws, 50-58 INCH pounds torque *1 *2 *3
AR Grip Screw, 15-20 inch pounds torque *1
AR Lower Receiver Extension (Buffer Tube/Castle Nut)
Rifle: 35-39 Ft. Lbs. *1 *3
Carbine: 38-42 foot pounds *1 *3
M-LOK Accessories: *4
For attaching metal accessories to metal hand guards: 35 in/lbs
For attaching polymer or metal accessories to polymer hand guards: 15 in/lbs
For attaching polymer accessories to metal hand guards: 15 in/lbs
The installation torque values are not minimums, they are recommended limits. The nylon patch compound may slightly affect the torque reading if using an in/lb torque wrench.
Using a small hex wrench should prevent over-tightening. Remember that the recoil lugs are doing most of the work, and excessive torque on the nuts is not required
All Documents posted on this site are for informational use only. If you make ANY modifications to your Weapons based on this site, you do at your own risk! If done incorrectly, you can render you weapon unsafe and / or unusable.
Not all feed ramps need to be polished. If you fire quality ammo with good quality barrel and upper, you might be good. If you reload and like to try different projectiles, cast your own or you are having feed issues, good idea to polish them up.
When I polish feed ramps I do it with the barrel removed from the upper. I am not going to risk screwing something up on the upper. It is more work to remove the barrel but worth the effort for a better finished product.
All Documents posted on this site are for informational use only. If you make ANY modifications to your Weapons based on this site, you do at your own risk! If done incorrectly, you can render you weapon unsafe and / or unusable.
I wanted a tool to help get the magazine catch pushed out of my M16/AR-15 without scratching or marring the metal. To compresses the spring and make removal of the magazine catch easier.
Looking around I saw AR Magazine Catch tools similar to mine on various web sites for around $10 without shipping. I am frugal and own a 3D printer, I decided to make one.
I know you can use many other things to push it out, such as, but not limited to, pencil, punch, your kids finger….If you have a 3D printer it is a quick and cheap print.
All Documents posted on this site are for informational use only. If you make ANY modifications to your Weapons based on this site, you do at your own risk! If done incorrectly, you can render you weapon unsafe and / or unusable.